This is the name of the train that runs between the Bolivian cities of Puerto Quijarro, on the border with Brazil, and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. A kind of initiation rite for every self-respecting backpacker, the train covers part of the journey from Brazil to the Inca city of Machu Picchu, in Peru. However, contrary to what it seems, his name does not come from the fact that he takes a route full of dangers, such as canyons, bridges about to collapse and evil-faced bandits. The nickname was born in the last century, when the train was used to transport lepers, patients and the bodies of victims of a serious yellow fever epidemic that hit the Santa Cruz region. In addition, at that time, the railway was not in its best condition and derailments were common, which contributed to reinforce the bad reputation of the train. OK, but enough talk. Pack your backpack, and welcome aboard! )):-$
LEGEND ON RAILS
Find out what to find and how to get around on the famous backpacker locomotive
Leaving from Brazil, before taking the train of death, it is necessary to arrive in Corumbá (MS), on the border with Bolivia. From there, you can walk to Puerto Quijarro – one city is right next to the other. To enter Bolivia, just present your RG and yellow fever vaccination certificate. The starting point is the Puerto Quijarro station, which is so busy that it looks like a street market. The ticket to Santa Cruz is a bargain – the most affordable one costs 19 bolivianos (about 6 reais) -, but it must be bought in advance, so as not to run the risk of paying triple the price at the hands of money changers. Three different trains take the route of death. The favorite of the crowd, for being cheaper, is the Regional – but be patient: there are more than 19 hours of bumping! On the Oriental Express, the trip takes about 16 hours. The Ferrobus, on the other hand, is the coolest, has carriages with a bed and takes less than 14 hours.
For those on a tight budget, or who want a true roots experience, the best option is to take the Regional train. But get ready. The benches are hard, with a fixed backrest at 90 degrees, and, as they are almost always full, people often have to travel standing up or sleep on the floor, among pigs and chickens. The slowness of the trip is guaranteed by the dripping of the train: it picks up and leaves people in every village along the approximately 640 kilometers between Puerto Quijarro and Santa Cruz. But the view of extensive plains makes up for it. There are stretches between the mountains, but they are just a short walk away from the precipices of the Andes mountain range.
Today, railcar derailments are rare. The biggest danger on the trip is getting a bad stomach ache from food poisoning. Everything is on the stops: from lemonade in a bucket to pork skewers that are beyond suspect. Instead of facing these delicacies, the more educated crowd takes a reinforced lunch in their backpack. You also need to keep an eye on your luggage. With the intense comings and goings of vendors and the comings and goings of passengers in the wagons, if the guy is careless he could be left without his luggage. As a precaution, it is worth tying the end of the backpack to a rope and attaching it to the bars of the luggage rack.
Finally, after hours of bumping and squeezing, we arrive at Santa Cruz de la Sierra, the most populous city in Bolivia and the final destination of the train of death. From there, to go overland to Machu Picchu, it’s at the base of the bus. The classic route, crossing the Andes, passes through several cities until arriving in Cuzco, Peru.
RAILWAY
The journey to the death train was already done on rails
People who take the train of death in Bolivia generally arrive in Corumbá (MS), the closest point to the border, by bus or plane. But, by the end of the 1990s, the journey was already starting on rails. From Bauru, in the interior of São Paulo, it was 1,300 km to Corumbá – almost twice the journey of the famous Bolivian train. Today, this stretch in Brazil is restricted to freight trains.
HAND ON THE WHEEL
A service for those who are going to face the journey
With your RG and yellow fever vaccination certificate up to date, you just need to be willing to board the legendary train of death. It is operated by a private company, Ferroviária Oriental. On the company’s website (www.ferroviariaoriental.com), you can check timetables and ticket prices. But be careful: you can’t buy the ticket online. Well, but a backpacker who is a backpacker doesn’t need these “luxuries”, right?
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