It is a true art to set precious stones in a jewel. Setting is characterized by being a complex craftsmanship, in which a stone is firmly embedded in a metal to enhance its beauty and guarantee the eternity of the work; makes it an artistic skill.
The goldsmiths of the 16th century introduced the technique of mounting a silver sheet in the setting around the stone, thus giving the impression of being larger and favoring the reflection of its sparkles; however, the setting technique has evolved over time, ensuring that the piece does not suffer any risk of deterioration or loss with normal use of the jewel.
Setting is one of the most delicate tasks of the goldsmith, who does everything possible to enhance the qualities of the stone; In addition, the setter must be specialized and have excellent eyesight to be able to hit exactly when calculating the setting of the gems.
There are four ways to set a stone: the closed or bezel setting is the oldest and most solid; This consists of folding the metal over the stone, rounding it completely to the height of the outer circumference of the gem and adjusting it against the crown; in this way it is enclosed in a metal rim.
In claw setting, the stone is held between the legs that make up the claw. This shape allows the passage of light through the piece, obtaining a great shine. It is used for many types of jewelry, but especially to set stones in solitaire type rings. The claws have three, four, or six legs, all of the same size and appearance.
On the other hand, one of the most modern is the bead setting. Its use allows to widely clear the stone with respect to the metal, to make it stand out better. The bits of material with which the piece is supported give the appearance of small granites; the setter can make different designs and obtain a more striking jewel.
The invisible setting involves the most complicated techniques; since the stones are positioned to the metal without leaving spaces between them; providing a continuous surface. In this stone setting, a small channel is previously made below the «girdle», to be able to be slid by a guide that keeps them in place.
There are many metals suitable for setting, however, platinum and especially diamond, are the most ideal for setting precious stones; although other metals are also treated for this same purpose, such as yellow gold, which provides a range of very nice contrasts with its color.
The setting is the final harmony of a jewel, and it is a technique to show its maximum beauty. Make your gemstones stand out to the fullest with the art of setting!